The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Gardens
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds gather.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish berries on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of the city town centre.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make wine from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe
So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned artistic district area and over 3,000 vines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. They preserve land from construction by creating permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."
Collective Activities Across Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can keep cultivating from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only challenge encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on